If you crossed Switzerland with California you might end up with something like Galicia, one of the least touristy regions of Spain. It is an oft surprising mix of mountainous land with pine trees, ambling dairy cows and misty, lush green slopes, combined with bougainvillea, white sandy beaches and intense cloudless blue skies.

The whole place seems to be made of cheese. The locals here consume 15 lbs per person a year. And having just eaten my way through over a pound of cheese in a week, I can see why. One of the most lucious soft cheeses we’ve tried during our stay is called Tetilla (little tit) because it’s shaped like a (large, voluptuous) woman’s breast..